Showing posts with label DIY. Show all posts

Define Borders With DIY Wall And Ceiling Textures

Did you know that there are numerous ways to make the ceiling and walls of a home look more stunning? You can create wonders as well as tricks on these important parts by simply adding the right kind of textures. DIY wall and ceiling textures can be easy to those who are willing to learn - so, are you ready?

While the ceilings and walls are just some parts of your home, they play an important role in improving your home's overall appearance. Here are some guidelines on how you can create quality wall and ceiling textures -

Prepare the Needful Materials

First, you need to choose from the different varieties of textures ranging from thin, medium and thick sets. Be sure to measure the ceilings and walls where you will apply the textures on.

Buy ample texture supplies such as a trowel, joint compound, a basin that comes in the right size so that you can easily mix the primer and the compound. Make use of large paper or plastic sheets on your floor. These will catch the mess that you are about to create because of the texturing project. Remember to tape the edges of the plastic or paper sheets so that they won't budge once you start the task.

Next, remove the stains on the ceiling and on the walls, making sure that you cover big cracks with a tape. You can go back to these and texture them later.

Time to Get Started

As soon as you have checked that you have prepared and purchased all the necessary materials for the texturing process, then you can begin with the job.

Start by rolling the water-based primer all over the ceiling and onto the walls. Wait until they are completely dry before you move on to the next part of the process. While you are still waiting for the primer to dry, try to experiment on a piece of cardboard or scrap wood the kind of texture that you would want to achieve. Practicing your strokes will minimize any errors that could occur once you start texturing. Be sure to achieve uniform texture throughout the surface.

Once the primer dries, dip the trowel in the bucket then apply the joint compound onto the ceilings and walls. Remember the strokes that you did on your practice cardboard surface. Be sure to spread the compound evenly. Repeat the strokes of your trowel using a fanning movement.

As you place more pressure, remember that the texture will become thinner. The lighter your hand is, the heavier the texture will become. Make sure that you use the same procedure throughout the covered area in order to get a uniform look.

Paint only once the texture has completely dried. You will be able to tell if it is already dry if it is already chalky. You may want to use the skip trowel or the orange peel (knock down) process of texturing. The orange peel process involves spraying a thinned drywall compound to the walls and ceilings. What you achieve is a rough texture that is quite similar to the orange peel.

The skip trowel process can be achieved by spot spraying thinned drywall compound on a clean surface. As soon as the spots have stuck, you can then make them finer by flattening the tops of bigger spots. This whole process brings about flat, small and smooth areas all within the texture.
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How To Install Vinyl Floor Tiles

If you want to redecorate your floor tiles but you do not want to spend a lot, you can do so by choosing to have vinyl floor tiles. Vinyl floor tiles are mostly used in areas where a lot of people pass by or for bathrooms and kitchens. Vinyl tiles are easy to install and you have a lot of choices for the colors and designs. You can also do the tiling yourself so you do not have to hire help.
Here are the steps on how you can install vinyl floor tiles in your home:
  1. Materials and Preparation - First, prepare the materials that you will need. These are: vinyl tiles, tile roller, chalk, utility knife and measuring tape. Make sure that the surface where you are going to place the vinyl tiles have no bumps, holes or other things that will make your flooring uneven. If you need to chisel off some adhesive from the floor, do it in a clean manner so that the installation of the new floor covering will be even.
  2. Measuring the Floor - The first thing you have to do is measure the floor so that you can tile the floor equally. Measure each side of the room and get the midpoint for each wall and mark it with the chalk. Draw a line where all the four points meet. That will be the center of the room. You will start your tiling from there.
  3. Layering the Tiles - You can first test the tiles to see if it is enough to fit your room. You can do this by laying down the tiles as the flooring without removing the paper that covers the adhesive. If there are any half tiles in the room, you can adjust the center to accommodate the full tiles.
  4. Installation of the Tiles - When everything is set, you can start layering the tiles. Remove the paper sticker from the back of the tile and lay down the first tile starting from the center of the room. Use the tile roller to flatten the vinyl tile and to make sure that there are no air bubbles. Remember to place the tiles as close as possible to each other so that the flooring will not be visible.
  5. Edges - If you need to cut the tile when you reach a wall, do so with the utility knife. Make sure that you cut just enough to fit the tile on the floor. You can also use a ruler to make sure that you will cut in a straight line.
These are the instructions on how you can install your own vinyl tiles. This is an easy task that everyone can do. The next time that you want to change your floor tiles, you can choose another design to compliment the theme of your house. Another thing you can do is buy 2 or more colors of vinyl tiles and place them alternately on the floor to have a checkerboard effect.
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How To Design a Shoe Rack

There's always a tendency to have your shoes sprawled all over the closet due to the fact that there isn't enough space for all of them. True enough, you can't have enough floor space for them either without hurting yourself or your Mephisto shoes. So to save yourself from having that one shoe eternally lost under the bed, here are some ideas to make your own shoe rack, and to make it practical inside your room, house or apartment.
  1. Put your shoe rack in with your closet organizer. If you had been planning to rearrange your closet organizer, then this is one point where you can integrate your shoes into the design. You can have the clothes rack placed much higher so your shoes could be place in the bottom of your closet. You can also have them arranged to the side as a separate shelf and make it your shoe cabinet. The plus side on this is that you can put any kind of shoes in it without any fear of breaking heels or not having a place for your sandals.
  2. Hang your shoes behind the door. There are different ways in which you can do this, and one is by buying wide enough garter straps to stick to your door to put in your shoes or flip flops in pairs. If it is too tedious to cut the garter short enough and taut enough for one pair of shoes, you can try pulling a large enough strip of garter and make a creative crisscross behind your door so you can shove your shoes in any part of the strap when you are in a hurry. Another one is sewing a shoe storage that can fit a pair of shoes per slot. It can hang behind your door, either on the door itself or on the wall nearby. You can also put this in your closet if you want to. More often than not, the shoes that you should shove in here are the ones that you use most often so you will have easy access.
  3. Floating shoe rack. This one is more applicable for your rubber shoes or sneakers, because it is a j-shaped contraption that will depend mostly on the thickness of the tip of your shoe for it to be able to hold on. You can often see this style in shoe stores to display their sales. This can also serve as a proud display of your shoe collection.
  4. Shoe bench. It may sound funny, but it is actually a quite practical one as well. Imagine a bench, which has all your shoes in its legs and seat. So instead of hopping around the room to get to a chair, you can just sit on the bench, bend over and get a pair of shoes, and put them on without going somewhere else.
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How To Install and Repair Door Locks

That door lock not working again? Well, the good thing is, you wouldn’t have to add this to your life’s miseries. There are so many options for you to remedy this dilemma, and here are just some of your routes for door lock installation and repairs:
  1. Know the different types of door lock.  First of all, it’s important to be aware of what type of door lock you have. You could have a handle set door lock, or a set with handles, door latches, lock and knob. You may have a deadbolt lock, which could be a single cylinder or a double cylinder lock. The single cylinder lock could be opened by a key on one side of the door only, while the double cylinder lock could be opened by a key on both sides (in this case, you wouldn’t need a twist knob anymore). Other modern locks include magnetic key locks, which operate by magnet and are thereby impossible to pick; biometric locks, which use fingerprint recognition systems and heavy duty bolts for heightened security. Biometric locks also have the added advantage of you never having to use keys. All you need would be your fingerprints and you’re good to go. Keypad locks are locks that require a number combination for you to open the lock mechanism. By knowing the type of lock you have, you would better be able to know how to do the particular door lock installation and repair job that you would require.
  2. Know how to deal with minor door lock troubles. What are some of these commonly-occurring lock problems? One of them is a loose knob. It’s easy enough to remedy, since the main cause of this problem is a loose screw. Just inspect your knob for loose screws, grab your screwdriver and tighten the appropriate screw. Another common problem is a stuck key, or more specifically, a key that breaks leaving part of it inside the lock. First, try pulling out the broken piece with a pair of pliers. However, if you’re not able to get the piece out successfully, you may need to take the lock apart, take out the screws carefully and then it may be easier for you to pick the broken part out. Yet another common problem would be your lock getting sticky due to humidity. What you could do is to put in a bit of graphite powder in the lock – this will serve as a lubricant. Just remember to put in your key a few times in the lock to spread the lubricant around the lock components.
  3. Get instructions from reputable websites. Once you find other problems with your lock, research troubleshooting tips depending on your particular lock type and the problem you’re encountering. Some very helpful websites you could check out include diynetwork.com, where you can see step-by-step installation and repair guides for most common lock types. You could also visit lowes.com for more information on different lock hardware and components; hometips.com; and doityourself.com. You could also go to the website of the brand of lock that you purchased: if you have a Master Lock, for example, try out their website at masterlock.com.
  4. Get a list of good locksmiths near your area. If you encounter a problem that just seems to be too complicated, or if you have specialized security doors or customized glass doors with special locks, definitely you’d have to consult a professional. After all, you wouldn’t want to risk breaking your lock and thereby worsening its situation. Get a list from bbb.org for certified locksmiths near you.
There you have it! These are just some tips and pointers for you to follow with regards to door lock installations and repair. 
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How To Install a Rubber Mat in the Shower

You might say that one of the worst things that can happen to you is stepping out of the hot shower and afterwards standing on the very cold bathroom floor. Although you can tolerate the cold surface piercing beneath our feet, we still end up leaving water on the floor until you realize it is already like a puddle. For some, this is not a serious problem. Are you going to wait for one of the senior citizens in your house or your little boy to slip on the bathroom floor before you finally realize that it is actually a problem that you should deal with as soon as possible? So you see? It is a very dangerous thing. Mopping the floor every time it gets wet is not a feasible and practical solution. This is where rubber mats enter the show.
Placing a shower mat on the floor outside your shower will make you feel comfortable. After all you don’t need to stand on cold tiles after a hot bath anymore. One good thing about this mat is that you will not feel cold even though the flooring where you place the rubber mat is actually cold. This is because the mat will soak up the water you carry on your bare feet. But rubber mat options vary considerably in style and function. So, before you install one in your bathroom make sure that you buy the right one.
  1. Quick drying. A good shower mat will not just soak up the water, but it should be a quick drying mat too so that the next person in your house can use it. Bamboo mats are one of the examples of quick drying mats; they can dry out within an average time of 15 to 20 minutes.
  2. Absorbent. This is the primary and main purpose of putting down a mat. Most mats are able to fulfill and meet this criterion sufficiently. 
  3. Fungus resistant. You should take note of this criterion, because it affects user health.  Rubber mats are considered the most resistant to fungus.
  4. Easy on the wallet. Undeniably, rubber mats are also the cheapest, plus you can also use them as garage mats, safety mats or rubber mats in your kitchen.
Now, that you have chosen a rubber mat for your shower room, it's time to install that rubber mat. Rubber matting can come in tile form or roll form. But speaking frankly, roll form is much easier to install. So, how will you install a rubber mat?
Step 1. Measure the floor of your shower room, and don’t forget to buy a rubber mat that fits your measurement.
Step 2. Unroll the rubber mat on the floor for 24 hours before finally installing it.
Step 3. Put a double-sided tape on the edges of the rubber flooring mat.
Step 4. Turn the roll so that you’ll be sure that the mats are properly in line. Trim and neatly cut the mats with your knife.
Step 5. Sweep and clean the area where you will place the rubber mat. Remove the double-sided tape and lay out the mats.
Installing a rubber mat is as simple as ABC. You will not just avoid the dangers of slippery flooring, but you will also enjoy the benefits and comfort that rubber mats offer.
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How To Make a Candle Dripless

Candles are great mood enhancers for any room in the house, but ones that drip wax on floor or furniture can create significant cleanup problems.

The first step to making a candle dripless is to remember that all candles operate under the same principle: The heat from the burning wick, which is always made from a very porous material, usually cotton, melts the candle wax. The candle wax thus melted is absorbed by capillary action up through the wick, where it is burned by the flame. A balance must be struck between the diameter of the wick and the diameter of the candle. If the wick is too large for the diameter of the candle, the candle will burn too quickly and with a smoky flame. Too small and the accumulated liquid wax can extinguish the flame, or cause dripping.

An age old method of making any candle dripless is to soak it for an entire day in salted water. The proportions call for about a teaspoon of salt per cup of water, with enough water to cover the candle completely.

Even with a properly balanced candle from the manufacturer, it is important to follow a few basic rules to make certain that even a dripless candle burns driplessly.  To burn efficiently, it is important that the candle remain as upright as possible. The candle should stand perfectly straight and be perfectly still while it is lit. Deviations from this position will result in uneven burning and will increase the likelihood of dripping. The room should also be free from drafts, as even the slightest breeze can upset the balance between wax and flame and potentially create dripping.

Candle makers themselves use various techniques to make their candles dripless. A tall, slender dripless candle is made by using a thicker, and thus more absorbent, wick. These wicks are absorbent enough to draw up the melting wax and burn it before it accumulates a sufficient volume to drip. These candles have a flame which is always visible at the top of the taper.

Thicker, pillar-style dripless candles are made by combining at least two different formulations of wax: a soft low-melting-point wax in the core, surrounded by a harder higher-melting point-wax on the outside. The effect is that the candle burns driplessly down the center of the taper, while the outer part of the candle remains intact. These candles have flames which are not not easily visible since they are inside of the taper.
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How To Organize your own Closet

Here’s one test to see if your closet needs an overhaul: find your favorite pair of old sneakers…in 5 seconds. Your closet might just need the restructuring you’ve been putting off for weeks (or years now) more than you know. Don’t worry. What you really need is a little push. Starting is the hardest part. Once you get over it, it’s easy as 1-2-3.
  1. Plan. First, you need a plan. Set a schedule for that overhaul. List down what you want your closet to look like and how many days you expect finish everything up. Usually, it takes a half to one day, if you’re used to it. What’s important is to stay on track. The deadline will help give that extra push to finish up, especially when you haven’t cleaned out before.
  2. Segregate. The next step is most crucial. Segregate all of your things—your clothes, your little trinkets, your shoes, and everything else—into three neat areas: KEEP, DISPOSE, and REUSE. You can’t keep everything. Place the clothes that you have worn at least once in the past six months in the KEEP box. Dump all your clothes, scarves, ties, shawls or shoes that haven’t been worn or used for one year in the DISPOSE box. Don’t be alarmed at how high your pile might be. Think of it as a much-deserved waxing for your closet: it hurts but it’s worth it. The REUSE box is where you put everything else in between. Some clothes can be altered to get back into fashion or some things you may give as gifts. Use this box with discretion. One man’s treasure maybe another’s junk.
  3. Organize. Once you've finally hauled out the excess, you may start organizing your closet at last. Let’s start getting solutions with your clothes.
  4. Fold and hang. Use hangers only for clothes that need them. These types of clothes may include: formal wear (dresses, blazers, slacks, etc.) and easily wrinkled blouses or pants. Place the least commonly worn clothes at the farthest corner of your closet. The more commonly used clothes should be placed in such a way that you can see them once you open your closet. There are a lot of systems to choose from when further dividing your clothes. Group clothes together in similar colors or with the same type or fabric. Make sure this becomes one of your personal customs.
  5. Shelving. You want to be able to locate your sheer pantyhose as soon as you open your closet. So you may need to use an organizer or drawers for your undergarments and another for your socks. Don’t forget to put these types of clothes on a shelf that’s most convenient for you. Need more shelves? Shelving may revolutionize your closet altogether. First, check if you can place more shelves in your closet space.
  6. Shoes. If you only have the standard five to six pairs of shoes, you can place them at the base of your closet. If there isn’t enough space for all of your footwear, use a shoe rack.
  7. Products for your closet. If your budget can afford it, you can check out the functionality of storage cabinets or cabinet organizers. They may save a lot of space.
Probably the easiest way to clean your closet is to hire someone to fix it for you. They may ask for particular designs for you to choose from. What’s important though, is to finally be able to find anything in 5 seconds flat. Now, that’s a good closet!
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How To Install French Doors

When installing French doors you need to make sure that you have the right tools, the patience and an extra pair of hands just in case. Once you have decided on your desired French door you can begin your installation process.
The first thing you need to do when installing a French door is measure the door opening. Once you know what the measurements, you can order the precise door that you need. When you receive the door, unpack it but do not remove anything except the packaging around the door.
The tools that you will need are: tape measure, paint, paint brush, screws, screwdriver, shims, and silicone caulking.
Once you have the door out, it is time to caulk the doorsill line underneath where the bottom of the door will be placed. Now you can fit the door inside the opening. Check to make certain the top and bottom of the door are level. Set one hinge jamb with its screw about six inches from the top of the door. Place shims on the top and sides of the door as needed. Put screws in above the hinges and check the evenness of the door all the way around. The door should sit evenly; once everything is completely level and the door is flush with the wall, attach the remainder of the screws.
Now that the door is fairly secure you can unclip the packing clips on the door and it should work properly. Now it's time to put insulation between the door and the frame. Install the molding and caulk the exterior molding to stop any air leaks.  The last step is to paint the moldings on the inside. This isn't strictly necessary, and whether you decide to do it will depend on the finish of the molding and the color of the wall around the frame of the door.
One thing to remember about installing doors is that everything needs to be level or the door won't close properly, so do not put in all the screws and moldings before you determine whether the door has been properly seated into the frame. You should only put in the top hinges and then check the leveling of the door.
Also, if you find it too difficult to install the doors yourself it is wise to consult a remodeler or contracting service to assist you.  If you are trying to install double doors, you will need a few sets of hands or professionals to install the doors correctly, so never be afraid to ask for help.
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5 Reasons Why a Professional Designer Is Better Than DIY

Remember when your home was new and the decorating possibilities seemed endless? You planned all the DIY projects that would transform it into the home of your dreams. Yet, you never got around to them. You put them off until you had more time, more money. I get it. Life got in the way. Now it looks drab and stale, showing the wear and tear of time. You're there every day, but barely take notice.

Your home is your oasis, a place where your life unfolds. It should be a place where you can relax, entertain and live. You should feel a sense of pride when you enter it. It's time to tackle those projects and create the dream home you always wanted. Try a fresh coat of paint, new flooring, new cabinets or an updated bathroom.

Consider Hiring an Interior Designer

If you love the idea of redecorating, but don't have the time or energy to take on DIY projects, don't fret. For less money than you think, you can hire a professional designer to do it for you. Most interior designers will be more than happy to work with you and your budget. You can do one project at a time, as your finances allow, as long as you don't mind the continued disruption in your household. Alternatively, you could get it all done at once for more immediate results. A small personal loan would probably cover the cost.

5 Reasons Why Hiring a Professional Is Better

1. A designer is looking at your home from a new perspective, just as you did when you first moved in. They are trained to notice details that you may have overlooked and because they do this for a living, they can bring some fresh ideas to the table. They know what works and what doesn't. They take into consideration factors like the layout of your house, the height of your ceilings, accent walls and the natural lighting inside each room.

2. A professional will save you the expense of having to buy all the tools necessary to do the job; tools you'll probably never use again. Whereas you would have to go out and purchase painting supplies, ladders, steam cleaners and a slew of other items, the decorator is sure to have all these tools already. They even take care of cleaning up once the job is complete.

3. They will get the job done faster and you will see quicker results. The decorator will be remodeling your home every day while you work, so your days off can be spent how you'd like. They will not be distracted by the door, the phone or the mail. There is no stopping to pick up the kids, start dinner or run errands.

4. Another money-saving plus is that they're not likely to make mistakes. Imagine tiling an entire floor before realizing that you measured wrong and nothing lines up! Mistakes, such as wrong measurements or faulty wiring are an expense that could break your budget. You're designer has the experience to get the job done right, the first time.

5. So, the designer has finished his work and all you need are the finishing touches to pull it all together. Accessories, such as furniture, wall art, lamps and scatter rugs, can alter the entire feel of a room. Don't start buying a piece here and a piece there. Rushing to get it done will leave your rooms looking like they were put together haphazardly with leftovers. Coordinate your accessories one room at a time for a look that is sure to wow all who see it.
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How To Install a Lockset

The process of installing a Lockset varies based on the materials you are presented with, if you have a door and door frame already prepared to accept the Lockset, your job will be much easier. Since this is not always the case, we will begin our instructions with an unprepared door.
  1. Measure the other doors in your house to determine the height you want to install your lockset at.
  2. Mark this height on the door.
  3. To make the process easier, stabilize the door by putting doorstops on either side of the door.
  4. Using the template provided with your lockset, mark the center of the hole where you will install the new lockset, mark the side of the door as well, as indicated on the lockset template.
  5. With a hole-saw, cut the hole for the lockset. Make sure to line up the pilot bit with the center mark you made from the lockset template in step 4.
  6. Drill the side of the door, using the second lockset template mark as a guide.
  7. Place the latch into this second hole, and mark the outside edges. Use a chisel to remove the excess wood, slightly deeper than the depth of the latch plate.
  8. Put the latch plate in place a second time, and mark the position of the screws. Drill the holes for the screws.
  9. Insert the latch plate of the lockset a final time, installing by screwing into place, ensuring that the angled side is facing the doorway.
  10. Begin with the lockset knob that has a piece extending from it. Insert it through the hole in the door, and into the latch mechanism, making sure that the keyhole is on the correct side of the door. Install the other side of the lockset, twisting if needed.
  11. Line up the holes, and screw the final lockset screws in place.
  12. Close the door. To prepare the doorway, use the mark made in step 2 to determine the height of the lockset, and make a mark at the same height on the doorframe.
  13. Open the door. Using a drill, make a hole above and below, overlapping at the height mark.
  14. Close the door, testing the size of the hole. Make the hole larger as needed.
  15. Put the strikeplate in place, and follow steps 7-9 for the strikeplate, with the angled edge facing the door.
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How To Reupholster an Antique

In today’s world, more people are beginning to adhere to the principles of green living (i.e., using materials that are eco-friendly and recycling materials as much as possible). These principles have also invaded the area of home design such that an increasing number of homeowners now prefer recycling old furniture rather than buying new items. Aside from minimizing waste, repurposing old furniture is also a clever way to integrate antiques into your existing home design concept, not to mention the fact that it will also save you hundreds of dollars in the process.

Repurposing requires an eye for details and lots of patience. To make an old piece of furniture look prettier than its original version, one must properly plan and diligently perform the necessary steps. This is most important especially if you are dealing with antiques. However, although the task may take longer than usual, it is very easy to accomplish. Just follow the simple steps below to update the look of your antique chair.

Step 1

Prepare all the materials- For the upholstery, you will need the main fabric, fabric lining, batting or foam, a pair of scissors, a marker, a staple gun, a glue gun, and a screw driver. You also need to prepare some materials for the wood such as paint (if needed), brushes, and some varnish.

Step 2

Remove the seat and the backrest- Next, turn over the chair where you can directly access the underside of the seat. After cleaning off the debris, begin the process of removing the seat by unscrewing the bolts. Keep these, as you will use them in screwing the seat (and backrest) back on. Afterwards, remove the old upholstery. This will require that you manually pry out the nails and staples from the wood where the old fabric and foam are attached. You may discard these old nails and staples as you will no longer use them. Repeat the entire process to remove the backrest.

Step 3

Reupholster using new fabric and batting- Carefully lay out the batting, lining, and fabric onto the wooden seat. Separately mark out the outline on each material. Cut the fabric, the lining, and the batting according to size. Add three to four inches all over for allowance. Next, glue the batting or foam on the wooden frame of the seat, add a few layers depending on how firm you want it to be. Then, carefully place the lining and the fabric over the frame, flip it over and then staple everything underneath. As you do so, pull the three layers toward you to make for a snug attachment. Repeat the entire process to reupholster the backrest.

Step 4

Attach the newly upholstered seat and back rest- Once the two parts are properly upholstered, attach both of these back to the main frame of the chair using the original screws. Screw everything back on for a secure finish. Prior to replacing the seat and backrest, you may also paint the frame of the chair and apply two coats of varnish, just make sure that everything has already dried thoroughly before you attach the seat and backrest.

Step 5

Clean up- For a cleaner finish, trim off the excess materials. You may now enjoy your “new” chair.
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How To Install Shelving

One of the best ways to add more storage space to a room of any size is with shelving. Wall shelving can be used to organize and store anything from books to containers, and they are also fantastic for displaying collectibles. No matter the use, wall shelving really is very easy to install, and no matter your skill level when it comes to home improvements, you can install metal wall supports and shelving without assistance. Consider the available vertical space in your home, and use the following steps and instructions to add more storage or a place to display your favorite collectibles.

Step 1

Locate wall studs. For secure wall shelving it is important to locate at least one wall stud. Use a simple magnetic stud finder or an electronic stud finder to locate a wall stud before beginning to install shelving. Stud finders are available in all price ranges, and even an inexpensive stud finder will do the job.

Step 2

Level and install standards. The metal bars that hold shelving brackets are known as standards. They are very easy to install and level vertically. After locating a wall stud, use a drywall screw or deck screw of appropriate size and a power drill to attach the first standard to the wall, but do not screw it in all the way. This will allow for adjustment. Also, the screw should be at least one inch in length so it will adequately hold the weight of the shelving and any displayed items. Keep in mind that shelving over thirty-six inches in length or a unit that will hold more than two shelves should be outfitted with more than two standards. Use at least three standards to ensure the load will hold, and to prevent the shelving from sagging.
Once the first standard is in place, use a level to determine the correct vertical position, and sink a screw into the next hole. Securely attach screws to the wall in the rest of the holes, and do the same with the next standard after determining the distance it should be positioned from the first one. You will also have to make sure the standards are positioned at the same height so the shelving will be level, and this can be achieved using a laser level or a long carpenter’s level. Use a pencil to mark the proper locations.
If the second standard will not be placed over a wall stud, you will have to use wall anchors. The best types of wall anchors are toggle bolts. The wings are movable, and after the bolt and attachment are placed through the wall, the wings automatically open and hold the heavy item in place. Plastic wall anchors can also be used, but make sure they are capable of holding the weight of shelves and displayed items. Use the same method of installing center standards, if necessary, but make sure the toggle bolts will fit through the holes if they must be used.

Step 3

Install brackets. Once the standards are in place, install the brackets that will hold the shelving. If the brackets are not long enough to accommodate the shelves, they can still be used. Simply mark the locations of the tips of the brackets against the bottom of shelving boards, and use a saw to make notches to accommodate the tips. Pay careful attention to the load rating of the brackets before using them to hold heavy items.

Step 4

Install shelves on brackets. The last step is to install the shelving on the brackets. Costly ready-made laminate or finished wood shelving is not necessary. Visit your local lumber yard or home improvement store and purchase inexpensive sturdy wood planks instead. They can be cut to specifications before purchase, and they can be painted and decorated to match any color or style of room decor.
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