Why is it that most people can't seem to get rid of that "dark and ugly" basement mentality? If you do not think your basement falls under that category, then kudos to you. You probably belong to a class of people who have beautifully aesthetic homes, or you're probably one of those people who have great basement insulation. Most families see the basement as a dank and cold place and fail to see the potential that comes with having a huge underground space. Even some interior designers overlook the necessity of having a nice and warm basement floor. The notion that the room downstairs is spooky did not just start with Hollywood movies. It started because most people do not see the basement as a living space in their homes. Most people regard the basement as just another storage space, much like a stock room or the closet under the stairs. But even dull and cold basements can undergo magical transformations with the addition of basement floor insulation, some basement paint and a few tips and artistic ideas.
In basic basement construction, insulation is either incorrectly positioned or just plain non-existent. This leaves a whole lot of room for basement repair. And that means literally as well as figuratively. In order to utilize your underground space as well as you can, make sure that you choose the right combination of materials and proper installation. There are three basic ways to insulate your basement. You can go for any of these three:
- Internal insulation. This means that the insulating material is found in the inner part of your basement wall and just below your basement floor. With this type of insulation, a dry wall is usually added. This is because most insulating materials are flammable.
- External insulation. The insulating material is set on the outer part of your basement walls.
- Middle insulation. This is quite common, but the disadvantage comes when you have to do repairs.
Insulating the basement floor is also another point of contention for some people, because they think that insulating the walls and ceiling is better. But try waking up in the middle of the night, still warm from your sleep, and walking on a cold floor. In a dank and wet basement, adding floor insulation could be a good way of keeping the cold out or simply, the warmth in. Make sure that there is a proper drain, though, before putting in that insulator. The most common floor insulation materials are:
- Reflective foil
- Extruded polystyrene foam
- Polyurethane foam
- Carpet
But in the course of insulation installation, make sure that you put sealer in the joints or in the areas that are prone to damage. If you are using tiles, make sure that these are sealed properly. This will keep your maintenance fairly easy.
Check with your local insulators for the material that would suit your demands, but far more important, look for a material that will work well with the make of your basement floor. Look for other types, options, etc. that will not cost you an exorbitant amount. A warmer and brighter basement is yours to have with just a few intelligent choices.
Are you in the midst of a do-it-yourself renovation? Or have you just hired an interior designer to help you put into reality all the wonderful ideas that you have about making your home look more interesting and relaxing? Remember that every element plays a vital part in making your house your "dream house." Most people tend to pay attention to the living area, the dining and the kitchen areas and home offices. And the basement hardly gets any artistic attention. This is probably because most families view the basement as storage space.
Even movies have created a mindset that is far from nice. If you notice, most horror or suspense flicks depict the basement as something mysterious or scary. But nobody has ever entirely realized that adding aesthetically inclined choices in design can bring color and vibrant life to the basement. You could start with the basement floor. In basement construction, you should know what you want to use the area for and choose a type of basement flooring that would suit your needs as well as match your design sense. In particular, start with what type of environment you want to have in this lower level.
If you have a moist or wet basement, choose a floor material that can withstand this setup. Some of the best architectural plans and designs include basements that are dry and have good insulation. To make your space appealing to your senses, you have a choice among these types of flooring materials:
- Linoleum. This material can be easily put in place and can be removed easily as well. There are countless choices you can make regarding design and color. You can even choose one that matches the basement paint that you have. If your cement floor has lines, cracks, etc., a linoleum covering can easily mask this.
- Ceramic or Porcelain. Ceramic or porcelain flooring is beautiful and not very high on the price level. But its downsides are that they are prone to cracks and breakage, and you need to tone their "coolness" down with warm colored tones in your furniture, coverings or upholstery.
- Concrete Floor. This is the most basic and common choice. A concrete floor is very functional and low maintenance, but it lacks a little notch on the appeal side.
- Laminates. This choice is for those who are on a tight budget but want the same aesthetic effects as the more expensive flooring materials. The plus sides of using laminates are that it is easy to install and does not need extreme maintenance measures.
- Hardwood Floor. This type of flooring is very appealing and can give certain warmth to an otherwise cold basement. And basic wood colors can be easily matched to the paint you choose for your walls. This is also low maintenance, but the initial cost may be quite high.
- Carpet. Carpet provides good basement insulation. And the main attraction of carpets is that they provide a cushioned floor. They also come in countless varieties. But you have to deal with dusting and vacuuming to maintain your carpet and to keep it free from allergens.
You might also want to consider subsequent basement repair when selecting the type of basement floor you want to have. All these things should be considered and weighed for you to get just the right balance of aesthetics and functionality.
We all hope to get an extreme makeover for our homes from Ty Pennington but we cannot all get what we want. We also cannot expect five queer eyes to walk in and change our homes and lifestyle. Forget the house; the garage is the most ignored when it comes to beauty. The floor of your garage is even more ignored.
You designer will kill you when they see your garage floor. It is so lifeless with that flat concrete. It does not bring the much-needed oomph all of us are clamoring for. Splash a little color and bring life back to your tired old concrete floor.
Painting the floor is not as easy as it seems. With these simple steps, you can learn the essentials. Your garage floor will get attention and admirers will soon be flocking to admire your floor.
- Realize that you are working with concrete. Concrete is a lot harder to paint than sheet rock because it needs extra steps and extra tools. Make sure you are ready for a very difficult time. Save some extra cash for an expensive day.
- Get your tools and materials ready. Drive to your nearest hardware to pick up some essentials. You will need a mask to protect you from the fumes; eye protection to make sure your eyes are not irritated by the painting process, and gloves to keep your hands clean. To apply the paint, you will need a paint roller, a paint brush and a paint tray and some concrete paint. To prepare the floor, get some scrub brushes, etching acid, concrete primer, trisodium phosphate, hydraulic cement, and a mop.
- Clean the surface. Remove everything inside the garage. You will need the entire garage floor exposed. Clean the floor thoroughly with a mop and some soap. All the grease and oil on the floor should be removed to ensure the paint sticks. Once all the grease is removed, you can proceed to the next step.
- Apply TSP to the floor. Mix the TSP in the bucket according to the instructions. Apply the TSP onto the floor using the mop. Once you are done with the TSP, then rinse the floor thoroughly with some tap water. Once the TSP has been washed off by the water, leave the floor for a few hours to dry.
- Plug up any visible holes. Since you are painting the floor, you will need to repair any dings or holes on the concrete. Apply some hydraulic cement to the holes on the cracks on the floor. This will smooth out your floor and make the paint job look superior.
- Mix and apply the etching acid. Follow the instructions on the package for the mixing liquid. When mixing the etching liquid, protect your eyes by using goggles and protect you hands with some rubber gloves. Apply the etching acid mixture using a mop. Do this in small increments to make spreading the acid easier. Again, let it dry.
- Start painting the floor. When painting a garage floor, you start it off by stirring the concrete primer. Make sure that the primer is mixed well. Pour some paint into the paint tray and apply the primer using a roller, then let it dry. Once dry, repeat the same step for the concrete paint and sealer.
Congratulations! You now have a newly painted garage floor. After some hard work and a little bit of waiting, you have done an extreme makeover the five queer eyes would be proud of. Give yourself a pat on the back and show off your new garage floor.
Electric floor heat can turn bone-chilling tile or stone into a warm and welcoming experience. Think of what a difference it would make to step out of your shower on a cold winter morning onto a warm, heated floor. Generally, hydronic or water-based radiant heat, is used for heating the entire house while for discrete areas-such as a bathroom - electric radiant floor heat is best as part of your home heating system.
While electric floor heating was once the purview of high end homes only, recent changes have made the installation process easier and more accessible to the average homeowner. Heating elements are embedded in mesh mats that are generally 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick so that they retrofit into most homes without affecting floor height. There are many different brands of systems available so be sure to check the manufacturer's details and choose the type that is most compatible with your floor materials. Also buy a system with built-in ground fault protection and a high-limit temperature sensor. Although you'll want to use an electrician at the tail end of the process, you can minimize his time-and your money-by doing the rest of the installation yourself.
Don't be intimidated just because you will be working with electric wire. The heating element will come embedded in a roll of mesh wire. You order it to size and then cut the supporting mesh (without cutting the heating wire!) so as to be able to maneuver and fit it easily. As long as you do not slice, crush, or otherwise damage the electric wire, you will be fine. No splicing, no electrical connections, no expensive electrician!
Here's how to install electric floor heat on your own:
- Electric floor heat can be installed on concrete or cement backerboard, and plywood. Inspect your subfloor. Make sure that there is nothing sharp in or on it that could damage the heating wire. If you want to lay down installation beneath the wire mesh, now is the time to do so.
- Sometimes the mesh comes with the electric wire already in place and sometimes you need to snap it into position. Once the electric wire is in position in the mesh mat, lay the mesh down. Cut the mesh to fit-just be sure that it is the mesh that you cut and not the electric cable. Be sure that you maintain close to the same spacing between the heating elements in areas that you must custom fit. Never put the heating elements too close together as this could cause overheating. You may want to make the mesh even more secure by either gluing, taping, or stapling it-once again, staple the mesh and not the electric wire.
- Do not put heating element beneath fixtures such as the toilet or sink.
- Install your floor sensor. Ideally, you want to place it in an area with nothing above it that might trap the heat. The sensor is telling the system what temperature the floor is-if it is in a spot where heat gets trapped, the sensor will not be accurate. The sensor wire should not cross any heating element. Local electric code in your area may require that the low voltage sensor wire be placed in a separate conduit than the high voltage heating element wires behind the wall.
- Just as when you're putting up your Christmas lights, if there is a break anywhere in the line for electric heating systems, the rest of the lights won't work-the same goes for your electric floor heat. Invest in a continuity tester so that you can test as you go, and find a break before you've laid all the mesh down for your electric radiant heat. Simply test for continuity after laying each piece so you'll know exactly where the break is.
- Drill a hole so that you can put the wires through the floor plate (just above the subfloor) and fish them up through the wall to the junction box.
- Be sure that any wiring for your high temperature alarm is also connected for your electric heating. Also make sure that the cold lead wires do not cross the heating element on their way to the power supply.
- Now it's time to call an electrician who is familiar with your local codes. In some areas, it is required that the two wires from the heating roll and the one wire from the floor sensor be in separate conduits. These wires come to the gangbox, which is where the thermostat will be set. The electrician can double check your work and wire the gangbox.
- Once you get the okay from the electrician, you can apply a thin coating of thinset on top of the mesh and electric heating element. Be careful not to knock or bang the heating element as you do so as this can damage floor heating systems.
- Thinset can take up to two weeks to set completely depending upon the humidity and other factors. The thinset must be fully set before you turn the electric floor heat on! Once the thinset is set, put your flooring material on top of it and you're finished.
When you first turn on the electric floor heating, don't worry - it can take an hour to get really warm and that is normal with all radiant floor heating systems. Your best bet is to turn it up to somewhere between 80-90 degrees and then leave for a while. Otherwise, it's like watching water boil. Come back later to a toasty warm floor, take off your socks, and enjoy.
Doors are supposed to swing smoothly and freely, away from the floor. If you notice that your door rubs the floor, you will need to do something about it. Not only does the sound is annoying; it can also damage your floor. If you have a carpet or a doormat near the door, the constant friction with the door can also damage these.
- Act fast on the first sign of the door rubbing the floor. The usual cause of a door rubbing the floor is improper installation of the door. The door may be too big that it needs more area to swing freely. Another cause may be you’re your tiles or your carpet is too thick for the door to be able to swing smoothly. Trimming the door is easier than replacing your flooring.
- First of all, you will need to trace back the occurrence of the rubbing. If the rubbing starts just recently, check out the hinges, as they may be loose. Loose hinges will make the door hang lower, thus all you need to do is to tighten the screws of the hinges.
- If the tightening does not work, then you will need to trim the door for the excess portion that comes in contact with the floor.
- Work on the trimming by closing the door. Inspect the door when closed, note if there are any uneven portions. Try to open the door and take note of the area that rubs against your floor. Use a pencil or a marker to mark the area.
- Next, you will need to remove the door from the jamb. Unscrew the hinges so that you can remove the door. You will need someone to assist you in holding the door while you unscrew the hinges. Depending on the weight of the door, you may need more than one person to assist you.
- Once you have successfully removed the door from the jamb, you need to lay it flat on a surface. Again, examine the door carefully and inspect the unevenness. At times, the wood may have chipped off, thus the rubbing against the floor.
- If the uneven portion is insignificant, all you need to do is to sand it with sandpaper or an electric sander.
- If the uneven portion extends to a greater width, then you will need a plane to cut off the area. Use the plane with caution and then sand the area for a smoother finish. Remember to use protective eyewear when you deal with sanding to avoid eye irritation.
- When you’re done with the shaving and the sanding, inspect again so that you can give a final look before you put the door back. If you have cut off an area from the door, you might need to repaint the area so that it will not be noticeable. Allow the paint to completely dry before you put back the door as the paint may stain your floor.
Put back the door by screwing the hinges. This is the perfect time to replace rusting screws so make sure you evaluate the hinges well. Ask a partner to hold the door while you screw the hinges. Ensure that you tighten the screws to prevent the door from falling.
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